Driven by my perpetual craving for the delicate yet hearty Afghan dumplings known as mantu, I stumbled across Afghan pasta (also called Afghan macaroni). It features all the same flavors I’ve come to know and love from enjoying mantu at dinner parties and in restaurants but requires far fewer dishes and way less time,
making it manageable for a low-key iftar or other at-home affair. This version features a deeply savory meat sauce spiced with cumin and coriander and is topped with a garlicky, minty yogurt sauce. I love using pappardelle, but feel free to use rigatoni, penne, or any other pasta shape that loves a thick meat sauce.
Afghan Pasta
By ZAYNAB ISSA
Ingredients
INGREDIENTS
11⁄2 tsp. The Spice House Ground
Moroccan Coriander Seeds
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt (not Greek)
3 Tbsp. finely chopped mint, plus leaves
for serving
8 garlic cloves, 2 finely grated,
6 finely chopped
3 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 11⁄2 tsp.
Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. ground beef (20% fat)
2 large onions, finely chopped
11⁄2 tsp. ground cumin
3⁄4 tsp. cayenne pepper
3 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste
1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes
16 oz. pappardelle, rigatoni, or penne
Preparation
STEP 1
Stir yogurt, chopped mint, finely grated
garlic, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1⁄2 tsp.
Morton kosher salt, and 1 Tbsp. water in
a medium bowl to combine. Chill yogurt
sauce while you make the meat sauce.
STEP 2
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other
heavy pot over medium. Break meat
into large clumps (about 3") and add
to pot; season with 1 tsp. Diamond
Crystal or 1⁄2 tsp. Morton kosher salt.
Cook, undisturbed, until meat is
browned underneath and some fat
has cooked out, 6–8 minutes.
STEP 3
Break up meat with a wooden spoon,
then add onions and remaining finely
chopped garlic. Stir in coriander, cumin,
cayenne, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
1⁄2 tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until onions are softened,
6–8 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook,
stirring, until slightly darkened in color,
about 2 minutes.
STEP 4
Pour in crushed tomatoes and 2 cups
water and stir to combine. Bring to
a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-
low and cook, stirring occasionally,
until sauce is thickened and flavors have
come together, 30–35 minutes.
STEP 5
About 10 minutes before sauce is done,
cook pasta in a large pot of boiling
salted water, stirring occasionally, until
very al dente, about 2 minutes less
than package directions.
STEP 6
Using tongs, transfer pasta to pot
with sauce. Add 1 cup pasta cooking
liquid and cook over medium heat,
tossing constantly, until pasta is al dente
and sauce thickens a little more,
about 2 minutes. Divide pasta among
bowls; drizzle yogurt sauce over and
top with mint leaves.
